Istanbul, Turkey

November 23, 2009

Istanbul was a little like drinking from a fire hose. We learned so much. Our guide was Ceren (means Joanna in English).

We started at a mosque called Suleymaniye. We removed our shoes and we women covered our heads and the men removed their hats. Ceren explained some of the tenets of the Muslim religion and also some of the significance of the tiles. The tiles are made of quartz and the colors are very vivid and stay that way. The tiles cover the walls. Above them are painted frescos. Many tiles have daisies on them and Ceren told us that daisies represent a happy life. This mosque is in the center of a bunch of buildings and is upstairs; it was donated by the businessman who put shops below. Smart guy. There are 5 pillars of the Muslim religion. If we remember them all correctly, they are: 1) accepting the one God and Mohamed as his prophet, 2) never harm another 3) give to the poor (2.5% is expected if one can afford it without damaging one's own family's well being) 4) prayer (5x per day) and fasting (Ramadan) and 5) make a pilgrimage to Mecca at least once in a lifetime. She explained abouthe praryers beads that apparently are called Rosaries. Each bead represents a different name for God, with the first one being "Allah" and their is a prayer for each one.

The museum at St. Sophia used to be a Christian church then became a mosque (Ayasofya) and is now a museum. It was closed on Mondays so we couldn't go in, but was have several photos.

Adjacent of this is Topkapi Palace. We toured the extensive grounds and then were able to go in a view the riches of the Sultans of the Ottoman Empire as well a religious artifacts and relics. We were not allowed to take photos inside. But the jewel encrusted items were stunning and well-protected behind glass. There is an 86 carat diamond, that the story goes that is was uncut and thought to be a worthless rock and was traded for 3 wooden spoons. Among the religious relics were the rod of Moses (used to part the Red Sea), the sword of David and a piece of the skull of St. John the Baptist.

From Topkapi we walked to the Blue Mosque but it was closed for prayers so we went to the Hippodrome - a former Roman arena with an obelisk in the center. The carved scenes at the base show how they raised the obelisk. We went underground and saw the Byzantine Cistern, built by the Romans and used used by their successors. During war the water supplies would often be poisoned by the invaders and the cisterns were a supply of fresh water. The pillars have a distinctive Roman design and several are unique. There is one with a tear-drop-like pattern where at a particular spot you put in your thumb and if you could turn your hand 360 degrees without removing your hand, you would get your wish. There a carvings of Medusa in a couple - one is upside down and the other sideways - this was to lessen her power.

Our legs were pooping out from all this walking and we were able to sit down for yet another rug demonstration. This one was a bit prolonged and sales-pitchy. Betty & Bob tried to buy a small rug but Chase wouldn't let their card go through, even after calling them. We headed across the street for a lunch of lentil soup, eggplant "dip" sort of like hummus, salad, Adana kebab ( very spicy) and dessert of figs and pistachio ice cream.

From there we were close to the Grand Bazaar - crowded! We were given time to shop, but it is not my idea of how to shop - lots of vendors trying to get you into their shops, throngs of people and bartering. Yipes - leave me alone! I was over it in about 2 minutes.

So on we went back to the Blue Mosque and this time we were able to go in. Here you do not need to cover your head but all remove their shoes. Ceren explained more about the Muslim faith and some about how the government works there. Turkey is 90% Muslim and there is currently reform and change that is embraced by the younger generation. Religion is part of the "state" but the mosques are pointedly not "political". Lecture topics are decided at the highest levels and the lectures must adhere so they can't get out of hand and venture onto political topics. The Blue Mosque is visited a lot by secular groups and tourists so they are not strict about the head covering. She commented that in order to not lose these relaxed attitudes, she takes advantage of them as opposed to adhering to the older ways. So she did not cover her head. Inside the mosque the floor area is for the men and the second tier is for women. She said that the women could see the men but the men could not see the women - removing temptations and distractions from prayer.

Some of the things we will remember of Istanbul are the smells - of spices and tobacco and chicken soup. As we sailed away we went by the area of Topkapi, Ayasofya and the Blue Mosque and they were all lit up. We could hear the sounds of the prayers being sung. Talk about iconic.